Rhena on the move – Part 4
From Mammern to Schaffhausen
OMD you guys I actually get to take you along on the water for this one!
I was hanging around the pier in Mammern checking out which people to tickle when they got in the water. I just love doing that. They always think it’s the current. Nope, it’s intentional. Oh, I so shouldn’t have told you that!
I happened to be there when the boat to Schaffhausen arrived. It was really crowded and not a lot of people disembarked in Mammern. I don’t blame them – there doesn’t seem to be much of a there there. I love these boats; they are full of tourists. Mainly Swiss and German but you do hear English at times too.
Shortly after Mammern is when things get tight and we are all squeezed together. I wasn’t looking forward to this and I am not proud of how I feel about losing quite a few friends due to the consistent heat right this moment. It’s still sad, but it does make it less crowded. Sometimes they come back later - when it rains. This is very rare, but it’s happened before. Of course, there is no guarantee. And with weather patterns out of whack the way they are, all bets are off anyway.
The boats have a problem with the lack of water in the river too. In Mammern the approach to the landing dock happened at a different angle than it usually would. There’s still enough water for boats to run – this is not always the case. Especially between Stein am Rhein and Schaffhausen boats have been cancelled due to lack of water. I appreciate this as it’s not much fun to be squashed to the bottom by those big heavy boats with not much space at all. Then again, it’s a pity. I love surfing along behind a boat or next to it. Don’t tell anybody that I hang on to the boats. If a lot of us do that we can slow a boat down. Especially those that go upstream. We’re just a bunch of kids having fun.
Back to our little trip. There are not many swimmers away from the shore on Lake Constance. On the Rhine it’s different. They have to really know what they are doing and try to be clearly visible for boats. Most people swim with floating bags that hold their clothes and valuables and keep them dry. The route of the passenger boats is clearly marked with poles, so the swimmers know where to go or rather where NOT to go. I’ve seen people get into trouble and we have limited possibilities of helping them when that happens. I wish they realized that a river is not a swimming pool and that it’s alive! Nothing against my cousins who live in swimming pools, but they do lead a very sheltered life. Well, mostly. If anybody pees in the Rhine it’s less visible and is diluted a lot quicker and without chemicals, but let’s not dwell on those unfortunate incidents.
Shortly before Stein am Rhein we pass what locals seem to call “Inseli Werd”. Don’t know if you’re aware of this, but we tend to add the ending -li to well, basically any noun. It’s a diminutive and an island (German Insel) becomes a small island (Swiss German Inseli). This island really is small. There is a monastery on it and parts of it are open to the public. It’s a haven for waterfowl. Just a beautiful spot to hang out. I might catch a ride back up here on a boat later. I need to get you down to Schaffhausen first.
In Stein am Rhein there’s another castle way up on a hill. This one is called Hohenklingen and there is a restaurant up there with beautiful views. This castle is still in use and has been beautifully restored. Well worth the climb or drive up. Yes, there is a road and yes you can drive up there. I heard somebody tell an elderly couple. So, I’m confident in passing this information on to you.
Even Swiss people get confused by which canton they are currently in in this area. It’s not easy. I think it’s great that Switzerland is on either side of the Rhine for a bit (those parts are marked purple on the map) as the border to Germany moves away from the water. There’s a German enclave and everything. Cell phones get confused around here constantly telling tourists “Welcome to Germany” – “Welcome to Switzerland”. It’s pretty funny. I can sense when we’re entirely in Swiss waters – the mood changes. It’s less charged – less competitive. It feels weird saying that, but I can’t describe it any other way. It’s just what I sense while floating along. Things must have been really tense here during WWII with anything north of the Rhine being considered enemy territory.
If you ever get a chance to have a wander around Stein am Rhein you won’t regret it. The old town is super cute. I can spot some of the beautiful old houses from the water and people who get on the boats talk about the gorgeous facades constantly.
The boat ride from Stein am Rhein to Schaffhausen is among the prettiest in the world. That’s what the brochures say. I know this because a tourist wasn’t paying attention and his leaflet fell in the water. The boat sort of zigzag’s its way downstream. There is a very specific path it has to take. I try to stay away from it. It gets too crowded. I join the waterfowl and float along the shore. I would love to listen to the conversations on the boat, but there are so many people that it’s difficult to listen to one specific conversation. I decide to take a break and swim ahead of the boat for a bit.
I want to get to that special bridge in Diessenhofen before the boat does. The bridge is very low and the boat can barely squeeze through. They have to lower the top and put down one of the masts. This is fun to witness as tall passengers get scared when the top is moved down. They are perfectly fine, but it must feel weird when the cover gets close to your head. This time was boring though. There was so little water that the boat fit in its normal state. Very disappointing. I will need to catch a ride back up some other time.
Diessenhofen is also where two boats pass each other. This is not possible along the entire route and two passing ships need to be well planned. Oh, and here’s something crucial you need to know. It is MANDATORY for people to wave when a boat passes. Please don’t forget that.
The remainder of the route is very calm and quiet. You can watch a video here. There are many vineyards visible from the water on either side, there is also another (former) monastery that has been turned into a clinic. It’s all just so beautiful. I keep hanging out with my swan, cormorant, moorhen and duck friends and let the boat make its way to Schaffhausen.
The next stage is going to be such a ride. Are you ready for it? It’ll be insane and blow your mind, I promise. I am really excited about it, but it’s also a point of no return of sorts. So, let me float back up the river for a bit and catch back up with you when I’m ready.
Notes:
YouTube Video
A tourist boat and the Rhine; think I’m in Heaven. How very lucky you are to live in such a place of calm, flowing blue waters. 🌊🕊️🌍
Oh I am enjoying this, Evelyne. I'll bet you can guess where I laughed out loud. I have all sorts of visuals in my head now.