Let me tell you about Mt. Rigi – Part 1

My favorite day-trip mountain in Switzerland.

I’m not actually sure when my fascination for Mt. Rigi started. I remember hiking up there with my parents when I was five. It was quick and easy to get to from where we lived and it is even quicker and easier now. I’ll tell you how I get there, why I always take the first train up, what to do when it’s cloudy, alternative routes etc. I called this part 1 because I’m sure it’ll get too long for a single newsletter.

I live in Aarau and on weekends we have a direct and fast train connection to Arth-Goldau. So, Saturdays are my preferred days to go there. It doesn’t take much longer during the week, but you need to change at least once. It’s just a tad less convenient. Anyway, my favorite train up is the very first one leaving Arth-Goldau at 7.55 going to Rigi Kulm. If you check the timetable you will see that it says TG that means “without any guarantee”. From what I understand this means that the arrival/departure times are approximate. This might not be a big deal in other countries. In Switzerland we need to be told.

On the way up - the first picture is down at the station looking up at Mt. Rigi. Not all trains have wooden benches.

Now, this first train is special in many ways. I like it because it’s not usually very crowded. On Saturday I had a compartment of six all to myself and only about half of the compartments had anybody sitting in them. It’s mainly people who work on Mt. Rigi. This first train is also transporting mail, food and other supplies (this time we dropped off some custom-cut wood at a house along the route). In winter there are crew members that will put down salt or gravel at that stops on the way up. All this is why arrival times are not guaranteed. So, basically you will get there when you get there. Of course this train is given six additional minutes in the timetable so it’s usually pretty much on time. There’s also extra time for the crew to unload everything at the top.

Overview Map Mt. Rigi

I love that we use trains (and in other places also buses) to transport goods up to restaurants and hotels and that it’s just the regular trains/buses. In this case it’s the fastest/easiest way as well. Still. I like it. Now let’s talk about where to sit. If you have a choice sit on the right-hand side but facing downhill. Your train might be crowded in which case you should NOT worry about it and just enjoy This will give you great views down onto Lake Zug and the valley below. It’s less comfortable sitting that way as it gets really steep (hence the cog rail), but worth it!

Two parallel lines between Rigi Staffel and Rigi Kulm

At Rigi Staffel the two rail routes meet and there are two parallel tracks leading to the top – Rigi Kulm. Once you reach the top (at around 8.40) enjoy the view from right there for a moment. Depending on the time of the year there will be cows and sheep, birds are there year-round. The train from Vitznau arrives a little bit later. It might be worth waiting to watch it arrive. It all depends on how much time you have. There is not much to do up at Rigi Kulm. You can walk to the very top (two options: steep and less steep). From up there you have a nice view of the surrounding mountains and down onto Lake Lucerne and Lake Zug.

Lake Zug and yes, those are sheep.

Lake Zug on the right, Lake Lucerne on the left.

This is where I have to provide a map, because you’d never believe me otherwise. You can see Rigi Kulm on the map in the center next to the green E 41. So, looking straight down from the very top you see Lake Zug, but turning just a bit it’s Lake Lucerne. Lake Lucerne is also what you see when you look down from the station when you arrive. Looking at the shape of Lake Lucerne you can also see why the boat is sometimes the easiest mode of transport. There are no bridges or tunnels except for between Hergiswil and Stans.

Lake Lucerne & Lake Zug from map.search.ch

From up where the antenna is you can walk pretty much along the edge of the mountain back down to the restaurant (it should be open by now, but maybe check opening hours before you go – I once got stuck up there without my hot chocolate in winter because they only opened at 10). Anyway, you can easily sit and have coffee, enjoy the view, and take the 10 o’clock train down. Let’s stay with that option for a moment. I would advise you to take the train down the other side of Mt. Rigi – just for some variety and different views. It was also the first route that was opened way back when (May 21, 1871).

Easy - kind of steep - walk down from the top.

When the trains arrive, you’ll notice that the second trains up are a lot more crowded than the first one. Always makes me smile. You don’t really need more time than the 1h 20 minutes you have if taking the first train. You’ll need a lot less in fact, so a hot chocolate/coffee is a good option. Taking the 10 o’clock train down to Vitznau will get you there just in time to take the boat to Lucerne. Don’t worry if the transfer time seems a bit tight. The boat leaves literally right next to the train station. The boat ride across is beautiful. You’ll have great views of Mt. Pilatus. Watch the video of my Saturday morning here.

From Lucerne you can catch trains in all directions. Most popular are probably Zurich, Basel and Bern. I need to travel either via Olten, Zofingen, or Rotkreuz to get back to Aarau. Let me break here and I’ll be back with Part 2 shortly.

Notes:

For all timetables

Map from map.search.ch

Video

Overview map